Finished Project: Half Zip Merino top

This was the last piece of merino fabric from my somewhat impulse purchase from New Zealand Merino and Fabrics, from a year and a half ago. I guess though since it's been that long, it now qualifies as stash busting, right?

I had a specific idea of what I wanted this top to be, but without really having a clear picture in my head (if that makes sense). Since I'd already made a simple lightweight hoodie, and a vest, I wanted something different. I wanted a slightly longer top, with a zipped up collar. I also though that adding some gathers to the side could bring some interest. And I also wanted a regular set-in sleeve (no raglan), and princess seams at the bust...

With all these requirements, I was looking around for patterns that would work. It was harder than I thought actually, even though the concept of a half-zip is pretty simple. I went through all my burda magazines, and looked online as well.

Eventually, I came across the Ascent Fleece Pullover pattern, by 4 out of 5. It definitely fit the bill, to a point. But to be honest, I have now reached a point where I own so many patterns already - Burda magazine, big 4 envelope patterns, independent designer pdfs...etc that I find it hard to justify buying yet another pattern, especially for something pretty simple.

So instead, I went back to my stash, and sure enough found a pattern that could be hacked into what I wanted. I didn't look very far as I picked the same pattern I had made my merino vest out of, McCall M7026.

I did have to make some changes to make it fit the bill.

The pattern has a few design lines that are much more intricate than what I wanted (especially in the upper back), but it wasn't very hard to tape those pieces together in the pattern and cut them as one piece. 

I then combined the front and back shoulder yoke into one piece. I also removed the back center seam. In the front, I rotated the princess seams so they would end at the armhole instead of shoulder yoke. Since this pattern is for a jacket, and I wanted a half zip, I removed the seam allowance at the center front, and cut that piece on the fold instead.

I lengthened the bodice about 7cm and used the curved hem from view C for the back, as well as the front. Finally, I also added about 4cm to the sleeve length, but that's more of a standard adjustment than a design change...

Once I had all the pieces cut, I basted the whole thing together (sans sleeves), in order to check the fit.

Overall it was pretty good, but I did have to do some fitting adjustments to the princess seam at the bust. I took in the side pieces quite a bit (basically following what a small bust adjustment would be on a princess seam). As a result, the sides ended up being slightly shorter, so I just added a little triangle of fabric just st the armhole, to compensate. It almost looks like a gusset piece in a way. Or if I'd used a contrasting mesh fabric for example, it could have passed for a technical design detail. In any case, the fix worked fine and I don't think anyone would be able to tell that it wasn't supposed to be there in the first place.

I had noticed on the RTW half zips that I own that there was an extra piece of fabric attached to the zipper on the inside, and folding over the top of the zipper. This is to prevent the zipper from rubbing against the skin on the inside, or the neck at the top. So I decided to add a piece like that as well.

I followed this tutorial to install the half zip. The construction of it wasn't very complicated, once I figured out how to include the extra piece of "zipper lining". The part that gave me most trouble was the collar. After I had it all constructed, I realized that it was gaping in two places, on either side of the zipper, instead of sitting nice and flat against the neck. I hadn't noticed that issue with my vest, but I was using heavier-weight black fabric, so maybe it just wasn't as obvious.

In any case, it took me a few try to manage to reduce the gaping. I think I finally managed to get something better, by basically taking in some of the collar length towards the very top, so it would be shorter and tighter...

Setting in the sleeves turned out way more frustrating that it should have been. I planned on attaching the sleeves to the shoulders before sewing the sleeve and side seams. But I found out the hard way that the pattern had WAYYYY to much ease built into the sleeve head. No matter how careful I was gathering and sewing the sleeves, I ended up with unwanted gathers. So finally after sewing the sleeves twice without success, I decided to chop off some of that sleeve head to remove the extra ease. As I'm writing this I was wondering if maybe the adjustment that I made at the bust seam would have impacted the armhole size, but looking back at in progress photos, I don't think so...Anyways, if you intent on using this pattern, maybe check the length difference between sleeve head and armhole first...

Finally I was almost done. Using this tutorial I constructed the side seam gathers without any problems. The sleeve cuffs with thumb holes also came together really quick, and then came time for hemming. In an attempt to keep my hem from being all wobbly like on my previous merino makes, I used stay tape once again, to make it smoother (which is still only partially successful - maybe I pull too much on the fabric as I sew it, or not enough? hard to tell).

When I put it on, all finished, I didn't like the length and curve of the front, which I had matched to the back. So I undid the hem in the front and re-cut it about an inch and 1/2 shorter in the middle, tapering to nothing at the side seams. I liked that much better.

And voila! Merino half zip running top completed, and all from stash (well, except for the zipper).

I finished it just before my big race, and really wanted to wear it on that day, but B. wisely pointed out that wearing a new piece of clothing on your first long-distance race is not a good idea, as I didn't know if any part of it would start rubbing or chaffing after a while (what? like anything I could make could be imperfect like that :P).

I followed his advice and instead wore this top for the first time the following week-end, on a hike we hadn't done before. Which was very convenient for taking scenic photos of my finished garment!

Finished Project: Merino Plantain Top

This is fabric piece #4 of 5 of my beloved merino stash. When I originally purchased the other pieces my main goal was to make warm activewear for winter running. But I couldn't resist buying this extra piece, which color was called 'Seattle Grey'. Living in Vancouver, only 3 hours north of Seattle, that reference to our most common winter weather totally spoke to me.

Instead of activewear, this time I wanted to make a simple every day top, so I decided to try Deer and Doe's free pattern Plantain. I liked the A line shape and the wide round neckline.

I cut a size 36 everywhere except for the hem, where I cut along the size 46 line (which added about 3.5cm to the length). The fit was good right off the bat, although I think I could probably use a bit more ease around the bust.

Other than that, I added 2.5 cm to the sleeve length (long sleeve version). The sleeves where still feeling a little short even with the added length, so instead of hemming them, I added a small sleeve band, which also created a slight gather at the wrist. I like the result.

I've had some issues with my previous merino makes, to get the hem to sit properply and not get all wonky after a few wash - mostly due to the stretchiness of the fabric. This time thanks to the A-line shape, the hem doesn't need to stretch over the hips, so I actually added stay tape to the hem. It worked perfectly to keep it nice and clean (at least much cleaner then without tape).

The pattern came together super easily, nothing difficult about the construction. Overall, a pretty simple to make, easy to wear shirt, with the added bonus of warmth without bulk, as merino fabric is incredible that way.

I've only got one piece of merino left (but quite a bit of scraps which I could probably make underwear out of even), destined to be another running top. But that probably won't happen until later this year as I'm now in the process of making myself...a pair of wide-legged super comfy sweat pants...

We took the photos at the bottom of Bridal Veil Falls near Chilliwack, BC, a pretty scenic setting for an otherwise

Finished Project: Running my first Race in my Activewear

I wouldn't say that I only started running just so I would have an excuse to sew activewear... but almost.

I kind of became obsessed when I started following Dawn's blog Two on Two Off. I became really inspired both by her sewing productivity, and also by how athletic she was, running half marathons and such..all the while being a mother of 4...Anyways, hats off to this impressive lady, and soon I became obsessed with sewing my own tights and sports bra, etc...

As it happens, B. got really into trail running a couple of years ago, and after a while I figured I should give it a try, if only to see what all the fuss was about. So when he signed up for the Mountain Madness Hallow's Eve Trail Marathon, I decided to register for the 10km race. And there was my perfect excuse to sew some fun activewear!!! I won't lie, I was slightly more excited about all the pieces I was going to make than about the race itself.

Because the race was Halloween-themed, I thought I would use fun fabrics, rather than plain old black or grey. I found fabric with little superhero characters on Spoonflower and I knew it would be perfect for B (seperate post to come).

For me, I had my eyes set on something with skulls, and found a cool print from Spandex House.

Because the race was in October, I knew I couldn't just run in a sportsbra, I needed a top. I think someone had mentioned how good Icebreaker clothing were for winter outdoor activity, all made out of warm Merino wool...Since I was pretty set on making my entire outfit, I decided to source out Merino fabric online, and sure enough, I found what I was looking for at New Zealand Merino and Fabric.

 

I got a little merino-crazy and ordered 5 pieces of fabric (on the left of the print). 3 destined to become running/outdoor tops (orange, blue and black) and 2 to make everyday shirts (light grey for me and probably a Henley-type shirt for B in dark grey.) Merino is just so soft and cozy...I couldn't resist.
 

Once I had figured out my main fabrics, I put together a little mock-up of what i wanted the full outfit to look like:

For the patterns, the Cora tights by Jalie patterns felt like an obvious choice right away (especially after seeing it on Dawn's blog). For the bra i went with the Pneuma tank by Papercut Patterns, i liked the double straps and the tank version with a loose layer on top. I chose McCall 7261 for the top. I had just enough fabric to make the hoodie version, but I left out the pocket. I also wanted to make a merino vest with Mc Call 7026 but I ran out of time (currently on my sewing table though).

 
I then started researching online where to source technical fabric: Fabric that was breathable and moisture-wicking. After looking through ebay and amazon i finally came accross Spandez by Yard, an online store that carries an impressive amount of technical polyesther and spandex, from mesh to jersey knit, to various weights of wicking polyester, etc... I got some black and blue poly spande from the M-200 line, and some black nylon spandex tricot mesh (used in the bra).

I had never ordered so much fabric on the internet, and all at once. For a whole week I got a new package in the mail everyday, delivered to my work. My co-workers got to see the full extent of my sewing obsession! 

And then it was time to get sewing. Of course, even with planning this project a couple of months ahead, I ended up finishing the last item on the week of the race!

I made the tights first. The pattern comes with a side seam, but because I was using such a bold print, and didn't want to cut it up and have to match it, I taped the side front and side back together into one piece that would wrap around the side.

I cut size Q based on my measurements, lengthenning to size S at the bottom. Unfortunately when I first cut the skull fabric, I didn't take the stretch into account. My fabric had a lot less stretch than what the pattern recommends (there's a handy little scale to test your fabric stretch on the pattern cover). So even before sewing the pieces together I knew the skull pieces would be too small.

Instead of re-cutting a bigger size, I slashed my pattern piece in half lengthwise and added about 2cm of width. I also slashed it horizontally accross the crotch and added 2.5cm of height. I also had to adjust the pocket piece  (2.5 cm deeper), as well as the waistband.

After these changes I recut my skull fabric. The tights came together really fast and without any major difficulty. I used the patterns's recommanded technique for stretchy fabric: "First stitch: wide zigzag stitch along the edge of the fabric, without stretching the fabric", then "Second stitch: straight stitch 6mm from the edge, stretchy thefabric gently to preserve the seams elasticity".
I have worn the tights many times and haven't had any problems of stitches breaking, so I'd say it's a pretty realiable technique.

Next the bra. I won't go into much details as I've already written a full tutorial on how I added a lining and foam cups. As for size, based on my measurements, I cut between the two smallest sizes on the pattern and i didn't have to make any adjustments (see red line in photo below).

  

I used the main fabric for the front only, and used blue polyester wicking fabric for the back. I really like the contrast with the orange of the straps. Speaking of, those actually gave me the hardest time. I followed Sophie's tutorial on how to create elastic straps, but the turning over was a total pain in the butt. The safety pin kept un-hooking and I had to start over like 3 times. Those alone took me 2 hours to make.  

 

Finally, the hoodie. I cut a size 10, added 2.5cm to the bodice and sleeve length, and removed about 3.5 cm in sleeve width. I originally planned on making the turtle neck version, but I had enough fabric to make the hood, so I went with that. 
 

I think I also took in some of the hood depth when I was putting it together, I can't remember exactly. The merino fabric is pretty lightweight so the top turned out a bit more drapy, but I don't mind it.
You can't tell on the photos, but I used a slightly lighter thread to add a zigzag topstitching on the princess seams, the hood seams and the hem, just to give is a bit more interest.  The hem is a little wonky, proabbly due to the light weight of the fabric, but I can live with it.

The fit of the top isn't amazing, maybe a little too loose, but it's really comfortable, and soo warm! I actually wore it over another long-sleeve running top and I didn't get cold at all. I've been wearing this top pretty consistently since I made it to go run at night, and it's a great layer.

So that's it for my active-wear sewing spree! (well, aside from the running tights that I made for B, photos to come in a seperate post). It was quite the project and it's got me eager to make more pieces. I'm currently completing the final item (black merino vest), but I'll most definitely make more tights and the tank version of the pneuma pattern is on my list for spring.

Active wear sewing is quite popular these days, with so indie pattern designers coming out with their ow patterns. Are you sewing activewear? what are your favorite patterns?