WIP: (Recently and currently) on my sewing table

I opened an instagram account back in November when Sewvember was happening. Since then I've been posting photos of my work in progress projects. Until I get around to taking proper photos of the finished items, I thought I'd do a quick round up of the recent photos and elaborate a bit more on what's been recently & is currently on my sewing table...(please excuse the instagram-cellphone-lowlight qulity photos)

Pajamas
I've always wanted a nice pair of comfy pajama pants. I found the flanel-like fabric in the sale corner at Dressew and couldn't resist. I figured I should do a top as well and actually found some jersey knit I had in my stash. I actually remember purchasing the jersey a few years ago because it reminded me of ...my favorite pair of pajamas growing up.

 

The pattern for the pants is 127 from BWOF December 2007. Since I had enough fabric, I decided to knock out a pair of pajama shorts, also from the same pattern.

 

For the top, I would have used the Renfrew pattern, but I couldn't find my copy. I've either stashed it away in my storage space downstairs, or it has unfortunately been thrown away with a bag of scraps, along with most of my sewing machine accessories...:(

So instead, I downloaded the free "Tonic 2" pattern, by Skinny Bitch Curvy Chic.

 Camisole
A little while ago, my friend gave me this loose jersey dress, made of a really soft, nude coloured knit fabric. The shape of the dress wasn't quite right for me, but I figured I could transform it into something else. I wanted to make a camisole. I have a couple of RTW one, and they are really great for wearing under tunics and blouses, for that added layer of warmth in the winter/fall. I used pattern 128 from the same issue of Burda as the pajama pants.

For this project, I tried for the first time the stretch stitches on my sewing machine. The one I used for the hem is a decorative stitch that can be used instead of twin needles (the extra spool holder that came with my machine, to hold the second spool when using twin needles...also gone with the bag of scraps...)

Random refashioning
I'd purchased this home-made skirt at Value Village a couple of years ago. I love finding home-made items as I feel they are so much more special than RTW. The skirt was midi-length, and I wore it that way for a while, but I didn't love it. Finally last Sunday night, I decided to chop 20cm off the bottom and re-hem it knee-length. Thankfully by then I had received replacement for my overlocking and blind hem feet (which also happened to be part of the scrap bag tragedy)...so I used both to finish the edge and re-hem the skirt to its new length...

I have a couple more "RTW" projects on my queue, a shirt to take in, a lining to shorten, that sort of thing...Althought those projects may not feel very exciting, I have come to appreciate the "instant gratification" that comes with them and I see them as a good way to get some sort of sewing done when time is limited.

Watson Bra
I have been lurking at this pattern for a while now. I'm not one to jump on every new indie pattern that comes out of the blogosphere (how many boxy/loose knit tops patterns do I really need?), but I was immediately attracted to this soft, casual bra, perfect for week-end wear. When Caroline at Black Bird Fabrics (Yeah, Vancouver sewing scene!) came out with her most recent bra kits, it was the perfect excuse for some impulse online shopping.

Since then, I've made two muslins (one from the suggested size based on my measurements, and the other from the size that I usually buy for RTW bras). None of them have turned out satisfactory, and I sense a bit of fitting challenges in the future of this bra....

At least I'm having fun with muslin color-blocking...

Speaking of boxy/loose jersey tops ...
A while back I cut the pieces for pattern 128, from BWOF December 2013. After putting the body together, it sat unfinished for weeks as I was waiting for that second-spool holder (to use with my twin needles) to arrive...until tonight when I realized didn't need the twin needle to attach the sleeve bottoms, and since I didn't have enough brain power or motivation to knock out a third Watson bra muslin(let alone figure out fitting), I put this one back on the sewing table...

So that's it for my round up. I haven't blogged much but I sure have been sewing! I don't know yet what will be next, another knit top, a pair of pants, or should I start looking into summer projects?

WIP: Dress variations

I'm working on the famous BWOF 101 from february 2011. This pattern has been super popular with sewists around the blogosphere and I definitely wanted to give it a try.

I'm not a big fan of the gathered skirt though, I think it adds bulk at the waist which isn't the most flattering... So I've been thinking of alternatives and a little photoshopping helped me visualize other options:

Version 1:

This is the skirt part from the Sewaholic's Lonsdale Dress. It's an A-line skirt with pocket.

Version 2:

The pleated version. Here I've attached skirt 124 from BWOF December 2011. I could probably recreate this just by making pleats instead of gathers with the rectangle of fabric, but this is helpful to visualize the result. Check out this similar version in black.

  

Version3:

This is the skirt part from Pattern Runway's Sundress pattern. 

This is actually my favorite version. It's gathered but not too "pooffy",  it has pockets, a waistband and the shape works well with the bodice. I have visions of piping and maybe buttons but I haven't decided yet.

In all cases I included a waistband because I find it more flattering and it makes it easier to wear any size belt. I could have tried many other options but these three were the ones I was considering in the first place.

In the meantime, I have finally reached a satisying muslin for the bodice (only the 4th one!!!). Fingers crossed that when I cut the actual fabric it still works out - you never know...

In other sewing progress news, my shirt is still sitting on my dress form, waiting only for it's buttonholes, and I just received this pattern, which I am sooo excited about because it is pretty much exactly what I was looking for to make my copy of this blouse in a flowery fabric...

So many projects, and now the sun is finally out and we have family visiting from now until the end of August...

Good old Burda magazine...

It's long been established that burda magasine patterns are kind of a nightmare to trace, especially since they've put twice as many patterns on half as much paper...

I started sewing up the collar for my shirt earlier tonight, but once I had it in my hand, something was off...I just didn't think it would be so big...So I looked at the pattern instructions and sure enough, I'd cut the wrong piece.

To my defense, like I said, it's not like they make it easy.

You'll notice that both patterns 114 and 115 have the same piece number listed for the collar, though the collar shapes are clearly different (thank god for the little diagrams, I think it's BWOF's one saving grace...)

And here is the actual pattern sheet:

 

So, I missed it the first time...I don't know why they couldn't make both piece outlines the same thickness for more clarity. Thankfully, it wasn't too hard to recut the correct pieces from the old ones. I'm just glad it wasn't the other way around...

Making Progress.

I'm so happy to be making some progress on my WIP garments, I wanted to share!

The skirt is nearing the end. Construction is finished. I now have to hand sew the skirt and lining hems, plus finish the topstitching on the button placket and finally add buttonholes and buttons.
Buttonholes were my biggest worry as my machine doesn't seem to be able to sew two clean buttonholes in a row. The first one will come out right but there's a 70% chance the next one will be all messed up...I was even considering taking my skirt to a professionnal seamstress to get the buttonholes made.

Then, a couple weeks ago I joined the Vancouver sewing Meet-up at Spool of Thread. It was nice to meet other local home-sewers and get advice from them. I also took the opportunity to try the lounge's machine's buttonhole foot.
Well, I liked it. A Lot. Take a look:

I love how neat and finished this (fake) pocket flap looks, with the topstitching and buttonhole. I haven't openned the hole yet but I'm so happy this solution is working out. I will most definitely go back to Spool of Thread to make the other 6 or 8 buttonholes in the front of the skirt.

On the jacket front, I'm also have progress to report!
I recently contacted the people at Masterstroke Canada, after finding out that they had quite a nice online selection of ribbons and trims (plus ordering in Canada makes a big difference in shipping cost). I had decided that I actually needed twill tape to finish my jacket, as the texture and aspect will best match my fabric.
They have a good color selection but dont'offer the option of purchasing swatch cards as other on-line store would. So I emailed them about it and they offered to send me swatches of the colors I was interested in - free of charge!
That's what I did and look what I got in the mail today:

How nice! I love that it is hand written, and that they took the time to do it (thank you Steven!). I'm feeling pretty good about #38 (I will have to look at it in natural light), although I could probably go with a couple more options here for more contrast. We'll see.
But after searching for the right ribbon quite extensively locally and on-line, and not finding anything, I'm really excited about this. This jacket will be ready for spring!

I have traced the pattern for my Furryliscious vest but haven't had the courage to cut the fabric yet, which makes me think it might not get worn until next winter...oh well.

And finally, I've just started a "knit-along" with a friend of mine. We're both making this sweater, in similar colors (I'm using Lion Brand Yarn Wool-Ease Thick and Quick in Oatmeal and she's using the same yarn in Wheat).
This week-end we're going on a ski trip and I'm almost more excited about getting some knitting/chatting time with my friend than about the skiing...

WIP: Muslining Away

I’m in a big muslin roll these days. I have made 4 so far, and I have 1 more ready to go.

I actually do enjoy making muslins (that’s when I’m not making the third muslin of the same pattern with still fitting issues). It allows me to sew something really fast – since I don’t worry about finishing seams or facings, and to see the fit right away. Hopefully I find that there are not too many alterations, and they are easy to make. And once I’m happy with the muslin I can go head first into the garment, wihtout worrying (as much) about the fit, and I can concentrate on making clean seams and finishes.

Making a muslin is also good to check if you actually like the garment style on you. Many times I see a pattern that I find interesting and would like to make, but if I think about it a little, I realize the style wouldn’t work for me.

So far, I’ve made muslins for a top, a dress, a skirt and a jacket. The reason(s) I decided to make all these muslins, aside from checking the fit, was also because
a) l was lacking some of my supplies ( lining fabric mostly)
b) I hadn’t pre-washed my fabrics
c) I was uncertain of which project to start with.
So that way I still get to do some sewing, and in the meantime I can complete the steps listed above.

The patterns I’ve used for my most recents projects were envelope patterns so I have kind of forgotten about the whole Burda magazine deal: the tracing, and the seam-allowance-adding, the lack of markings for lengthening/shortening and the overly complicated instructions. Since all of my next projects involve BWOF patterns, making muslins was also a good way to brush up on the Burda process and make mistakes without consequences. Like adding a seam allowance to an edge that’s supposed to be cut on the fold….Or cutting on the bias a piece that’s supposed to be on the grain line (while the lining is cut on the bias…the grain direction on the pattern made it a bit confusing).

The first muslin I made is blouse 105 from BWOF April 2010. In this case, the muslin fabric is much stiffer than the fabric I intend to use for the final garment (silk chiffon). I already know I need to lengthen it a bit, but I’m having troubles figuring out the right fit in the bust, and the fabric isn’t helping. So I bought some cheap polyester chiffon at $2 a meter to make a second muslin. This will also give me an idea of the difficulty of sewing chiffon fabric (another good reason to make a muslin)…

My second muslin is looking good. I’ve managed to find the fitting issues and correct most of them. The pattern was one of Burda's "petite" sizing (for women who are 160cm, and I’m 1.78) so adjusting it to properly fit my bust length was necessary. I still have issues with gaping at the back armhole, but I think I know how to solve that. This is most likely my next project on the table, as soon as I’ve washed my lining fabric.

My third muslin is a jacket (121 also from BWOF April 2010). Although this is already a Tall Pattern, I will need to lengthen the bodice a bit, as I hate feeling a draft in the belly area :). I'm happy with the "boxy" fit of the bodice but I'll have to make adjustments to the sleeves as they are too big, so I will most likely make another muslin of just the sleeve piece. This is where an “elbow” mark on the pattern would also be helpful, to check that the sleeve length is proportionate, but again, BWOF patterns lack these….

I made a muslin of this skirt because this is a typical case of “Franken-pattern”. The skirt is from McCall 5192 and the high waist band from BWOF 112-01-2009. The muslin helped make sure both pieces would fit together, and make a sway back adjustment on the waist band piece.
This is a fall/winter garment so it will probably stay in the sewing cue until the end of summer…

My next muslin (maybe after I’ve finished the dress) will also be an experiment as I would like to make a pair of wide-legged paperbag-waist pants for summer. I don’t have a pattern for the waistband, so I will have to draft it, but first I had to find a pants pattern that would work without having to draft the whole thing myself. Making a muslin will help make sure the result is what I have in mind.

Do you guys make a lot of muslin? Do you enjoy it or do you find it’s one more time-consuming step before completing a garment? As it turns out there's a recent post this week on Burdastyle about why muslins are so useful, that I found very interesting.