mardi 18 janvier 2011

Work in Progress: A muslin for Simplicity 6580

I cut out and assembled the pieces of the muslin for my Simplicity 6580 jacket.
Well, let's just say that it needs quite a few fitting adjustments, unfortunately I'm not at all sure how to proceed.

Let's start with the pattern. It came in two sizes: 7JP and 9JP. I'm not really familiar with these sizes. Is it the equivalent of a Burda "petite" size ? Not sure.
The chart on the envelope allows you to compare the standard measurements to the "Misses" sizes. the 9JP is closest to the Misses size 10 (which is closest to my measurements), when it comes to standard measurements anyway, so that's what I decided to cut.

You'll notice that while waist measurement is the same for 9JP and 10, bust measurment is 1/2" bigger in the "junior Petite" size, while hip measurement in 1/2" bigger in Misses size. The back neck-to-waist size is considerably shorter in the petite size, which makes sense...

Before I cut the muslin fabric, I added 1" to the total length, as well as 1/2" to the shoulder length, as, based on my own measurements, it seamed like the pattern would be a bit tight. I also added a center seam in the back, instead of cutting the piece on the fold, to facilitate additional fitting adjustments.

So once the pieces were sewn together, this is what it looks like:

Yuk, not quite the nice fitted look of the envelope. It's too big, obviously, and still a bit short I think. The added shoulder length was a mistake, but it's easy to cut back out. I'll probably have to make a narrow back adjustment, and maybe take in on the sides while reducing the back darts.

The sleeve is obviously too short (which is often my case, with my freakishly long arms...), but thanks to the elbow mark and shortening/lenghtening lines on the pattern, I should be able to fix that. I might reduce the curve of the shoulder top, it is very puffy as it is (it doesn't really show on the photos), but this may be due to the shoulder seam being too long and the sleeve cap sitting too low...

As for the front, I'm not sure what to do. There are no apex mark to help figure out how to improve the bust fitting, and since I'm not dealing with darts or princess seams, I'm kind of lost. Should I diminish the gathers and take in on the sides ? If I do, won't that move the neck yoke seam to the sides to much (over the apex)? The neckline seams a bit too wide as well, plus you'll notice my uneven shoulders (my right shoulder slops more than my left) which I might just adjust with the proper shoulder-padding.

In fact this has me wondering if I should have gone with the smaller size, while just adding more overall length (1" isn't enough I think) and adjusting the sleeves...

So far I haven't had a project with that much adjustment needed, I have my trusty "Fit for Real People", and I also got "the Perfect Fit" from the library, so these should help me figure some of it out...But I'll also take any advice anyone might have !

7 commentaires:

  1. You know, despite all the fit issues, this is a cool style. It's not that obvious on the pattern envelope image. You have a good eye. As for the fit, when I have so many adjustments to do, I disassemble the piece and drape individual pieces on a dress form, starting with fitted pieces. I don't know if it helps you, however.


  2. I agree with MvK. I sincerely hope you will get the fit right. I mean just looking at it now on you, I can tell it's going to be good.

  3. @ MvK Thanks for your comment. I think it doesn't look as bad in the photos as in real life. I will most likely disassemble it anyway and recut those pieces after making some adjustment to the pattern. Your suggestion sounds pretty good and I might try it, though my dress form isn't 100% accurate, but it can definitely help !
    thanks !
    @ Steff, thanks for the encouragement, when I first put it on, I was quite discourage by the amount of issues, but it motivates me to try again !

  4. I think you need to lower the front seams, just a little, so that the gathers sit just under the bust. I may be totally wrong but it looks, in your muslin, as if they aren't sitting quite low enough.
    The back is definitely too wide, I think once that is made smaller lots of the back wrinkles will be gone. It looks like it's mainly the upper back that needs reducing.
    You can tell it's going to look super on you.
    The FFRP book is great!

  5. Hi Sue,
    Thanks for your advice. On the photo it does look like I could lower the front seam but when I put it on it feels like it's in the right place.I'm not sure though and like I said the gathers kind of confuse me in terms of how to adjust this part. I think I will start with the back adjustment and shoulder adjustments and go from there....
    Thanks for your comment !

  6. I can only agree with Sue, it does seem like you need more length in the bust.

    IIRC, in Fast Fit, SB says that the bust apex is about 5cm below the armhole/side seam corner. So you can guestimate. Also from memory, Bust apex on Big 4 are 26 cm from the shoulder/neck juncture.

    The pattern is so cute, I'm sure it's going to be worth all the hassle.

    Good luck!

  7. Hi Lakaribane

    thanks for the measurement detail, that will definitely help me !
    I'm still ways away from a satisfaying finished product, but like you said, hopefully it will be worth it !
    thanks for reading